Rhode Island - Editor's Favorites

Food in New England Editor’s Favorites Rhode Island

Rhode Island’s Cooking College and Ethnic Variety Spread Good Food Far and Wide

In addition to sightseeing and shopping, one of the pleasures people crave while traveling is good food. That leads, in turn, to a search for restaurants. Ethnic diversity, small and dynamic farms, and a local fishing industry make New England an adventure in interesting cuisine. Food tourism is not limited to simply sitting and dining. Rhode Island’s food specialties include chowders and clams as well as johnny cakes (corn pancakes), cabinets (milkshakes) and coffee-infused milk. If this is confusing, several scrumptious summer food festivals can set you straight. Below are some Editor’s Favorites; check back for frequent updates.

A Log Cabin Kitchen Is the Home Base
for This Communal Cooking Adventure

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Ninecooks, a resource for bringing people together in the kitchen, grew out of the cooking experience of food writer Lydia Walshin and eight friends at her home in rural northwest Rhode Island. Walshin learned to cook by watching her grandmother in the kitchen -- and Julia Child -- and she discovered that the real joy came from cooking with friends and family, improvising together, laughing together, and sharing food traditions and memories. In 2002, she began hosting monthly cooking sessions for her friends in her log house kitchen in Gloucester.
If you live or travel in New England and are willing to do some advance planning, organize a group of friends and make a date for a cooking class with Walshin. Be sure to schedule well in advance; her kitchen calendar can get crowded. Phone: 401-567-4460.

All Hail This Groaning Board

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Really, now, what is meant by a “groaning board.” Simple, it is a table so heavily laden with food that the table itself groans from the weight of the load. That phrase could have been coined for the Nordic Lodge on East Pasquisett Trail in Charlestown, where a monstrous buffet is served every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from April 24 to December 12. The buffet is expensive, but fans of the Lodge rave that it is all fresh, well-cooked, and abundant. The buffet is famous for its lobster and shellfish. Bring a BIG appetite. Phone: 401-783-4515.

Artistry From the Kitchen
Graces These Lessons

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Gracie’s, the elegant, white-tablecloth eatery at 194 Washington Street in Providence, will brighten the first half of 2009 for gourmets and gourmet cooks with its monthly Star Chefs Series. Top chefs from all over the country will cook at these once-a-month dinners. The guest chef and Gracie’s Chef Joseph Hafner will design a five-course menu paired with wine. Each menu will be a collaboration of the two chefs. The format for The Star Chefs series will be intimate; as they cook, both chefs will move in and out of the dining room to talk with guests about the meal and the wine. The 2009 schedule of guest chefs includes Celina Tio on February 9; Keith Luce on March 2; Michael Martir on April 12; Barton Seaver on May 4; Andrew Shotts on June 15; Alex Guarnaschelli on July 13. Information: 401-272-7811.

Beautiful open spaces, world-class architecture, and to-die-for wines

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For almost 30 years, Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth has been cultivating some of the choicest grapes in southeastern New England and they’ve got the wine to prove it. This historic estate is located on the beautiful Sakonnet River and guests are encouraged to tour the vineyard’s lush 24 acres before going inside to sample the goods. Aside from hosting daily tours and wine tastings, Greenvale also offers a live jazz series that takes place every Saturday from Memorial Day through October inside the estate’s 150-year-old stable-turned-tasting room. The vineyard is open to the public Monday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Sunday, noon – 5 p.m. For information call 401-847-3777.

Café Nestles Comfortably
Into Banks of This Historic River

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With is gracious old downtown of winding streets, Victorian city park, and views of the Pawcatuck River, Westerly is undoubtedly one of the prettiest towns in the Ocean State. An ideal Westerly spot to dine or sip and watch the river views is the Up River Café at 37 Main Street. It offers friendly and attentive service, meals prepared from fresh, local ingredients, bartenders with an understanding of classic cocktails, and a wine list highlighting boutique American wineries. Inside, beautiful high windows invite sunlight in the afternoons and moonlight reflections at night. This contrasts beautifully with the restaurant’s warm dark brick, natural wood interior, and elegant table settings. In one of three dining rooms, in the cocktail bar, or on the outdoor patio, guests may enjoy a three-course meal accompanied by a bottle of their favorite wine or perhaps a classic burger, an old fashioned root beer float, and a bottle of micro-brew.

Cold Fusion Creates a Gelato That Will Warm Your Soul

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Rhode Island is the place to enjoy Italian culture in all of its forms, and that includes Italian-style ice cream, known gelato (jau-LAH-toe). Cold Fusion Gelato , at 389 Thames Street in Newport, creates gelatos and sorbets are made by hand, not in a factory, following the truest Italian traditions, creating a silky, cool, uplifting fusion of flavor. For the uninitiated, Gelato has less butterfat and less air whipped into it than American-style ice cream. It is described as having a more intense flavor than standard American ice cream because butterfat coats the taste buds. Gelato uses primarily milk, instead of cream, and therefore has about one-third of the butterfat found premium American ice cream. As a side note, Torrance Kopfer, owner of Cold Fusion Gelato, has just released a new book titled Making Artisan Gelato, it features forty-five recipes for gourmet flavors. Pay him a visit. Phone: 401-849-6777.

Cooking Classes Are a Tasteful Investment

The Providence area is brimming with places and opportunities to improve your cooking skills through short, courses designed for hobbyists. A fine place to start is the world-class cooking and hospitality school, Johnson & Wales University, at 1 Washington Avenue in Providence. J&W offers a program called Chef’s Choice, with innovative hands-on cooking classes taught by professional chef instructors. These interactive one-day classes are designed for people on the go. The minimum age requirement to participate is 16 years old for the adult classes and 21 years of age for wine classes. J&W also offers kids and teen classes. Phone: 401-598-2336.
Rasoi, an Indian restaurant on East Avenue in Pawtucket, offers classes in Indian cooking. Learn how make your favorite dishes — biryani, chicken tikka, lamb curry — with Rasoi chef Sanjiv Dhar. Classes (more demo than hands-on) are held the first Monday evening of every month at his Pawtucket restaurant. The classes include a family-style dinner with wines paired with each course. Phone: 401-728-5500.

Restaurant on the Farm Offers
Warm Family Ambiance

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Wright’s Farm Restaurant on Inman Road in the Blackstone Valley region of the state is a Rhode Island tradition for people who love plenty of food served family style. From its beginnings as a working farm, the property evolved over the years to a family-style, casual-dining establishment. Dinner begins with rolls made daily in the restaurant’s own bakery served with fresh salad topped with Wright's Farm Classic Italian Dressing. These are followed by family-size portions of shell macaroni, truly unique French fries and famous baked chicken. The French fries are so good that they alone are a reason to visit Wright's Farm Restaurant. The restaurant also has a large gift shop and toy store with figurines, jewelry and leather goods toys, games and stuffed animals for children of all ages. In addition, many visitors enjoy an after-dinner stroll on the grounds.

Right Down by the Beach

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An experience on the Amalfi coast of Italy is replicated on the deck of Amalfi Restaurant located on Beach Street in Narragansett . Beautiful views of Narragansett beach and the Rhode Island coast captivate their audience. Come sit on the Amalfi deck to soak up the sun and sip a cool beverage. Dine on exquisite fare including local raw bar items, cedar plank pizzas, and meat and seafood specials. Located in Narragansett Pier the Almalfi deck is the perfect location to rest a spell while visiting local shops, or to spend the afternoon with friends. A choice of seating in the dining room with panoramic views of the ocean make this spot a restaurant for all occasions. Opens daily at 11:30 a.m. Phone: 401-792-3999.

Trinity Brewhouse Offers Comfort
in the Heart of Providence

Trinity Brewhouse was established in 1995 as one of the first combination brew pub and restaurants in New England. Located in the heart of downtown Providence, Trinity Brewhouse is easy walking distance from wonderful strolling-and-shopping areas like Water Front Park and the Providence Place Mall. The Brewhouse also is around the corner from Trinity Repertory Theatre and across the street from The Dunkin Doughnuts Center and Rhode Island Convention Center. Food is all-American, hearty, and filling. The beers, ales, and stouts available at the Brewhouse Pub are brewed on premises. For spring and summer, brew master Sean Larkin recommends his Belgian White Ale. "It is a nice crisp, unfiltered beer with moderate alcohol and is spiced with orange peel and coriander," Larkin says. Phone: 401-453-2337.

Warm Welcome at a Westerly Coffeehouse

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A coffeehouse, but much more, Perks & Corks on High Street in downtown Westerly offers a great range of fine gourmet coffee specialties, organic teas, a great selection of wines, martinis, and more, as well as a menu that includes bagels, biscotti, muffins, desserts, and other tempting menu items. There is live music from Wednesday through Sunday, and, at all times, a warm, congenial atmosphere fortified with plump sofas, soft lighting, and good conversation. Phone: 401-596-1260.

Farce From the Bedroom
and Other Light Fun at Dinner Theater

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The Newport Playhouse & Cabaret Restaurant on Connell Highway in Newport presents dinner and light theatrical fun, just right for vacation. Among the plays to be presented with dinner this season are “Butterflies Are Free,” “Breaking Legs,” “Goodbye, Charlie!,” “Norman, Is That You?,” and “Crossing Delancey,” and "I Ought To Be In Pictures." In addition to the shows, this is a place to eat well. The Cranston Herald wrote, “If you can’t find something you like in the huge selection, then there is no buffet that will please you. … Look for the specialties. The chef makes a delicious hot and spicy roast pork dish that I could have filled up on.” Phone: 401-848-PLAY.

First the Grapes, Then the Gourmet

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Whether you are planning a celebration of the good life, New England style, indoors or outdoors, the place to stock up on delectables on Jamestown island is Grapes & Gourmet , a full-service deli and gourmet food shop on Ferry Road. Grapes & Gourmet sells more than 500 wines, an assortment of micro-brews, imported and domestic beer, spirits, and array of cheeses, breads, dipping sauces, olive oils, and other epicurean specialties. Owner Frank LaPere has created a welcoming atmosphere that caters to customers who enjoy quality wines, cold beer, cooking and entertaining. The deli counter is stocked with items such as smoked salmon, prosciutto, mini pizzas, bulk olives, fresh fruit, cold salads and specialty cheeses. Phone: 401-423-0070.

Fresh Local Shellfish, Locally Grown Vegetables and More

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The Coastal Growers Market in Saunderstown offers New Englanders a great opportunity to support local farmers and to purchase a variety of hard-to-find products including organic produce, pasture-fed meats, locally raised shellfish and more. Customers are encouraged to bring the whole family for a unique shopping experience and some of the finest produce in Rhode Island. Whether it’s the old-timey acoustic music, the friendly farmers and vendors, the friends you see and meet, the yoga on the lawn or, perhaps, the fabulous food, flowers and crafts, it’s hard not to enjoy yourself at this market. Location: Casey Farm, 2325 Boston Neck Road. Time: Saturdays from 9 a.m. – noon; May 16 through November 7, 2009. Information: 401-295-1030. Click here for a full listing of farmers’ markets in Rhode Island.